It’s a question we get asked a lot at Yarnplaza: “How can I adjust a pattern to my measurements?” After all, when you’ve put so much love and energy into knitting or crocheting a new fashion item, you naturally want it to fit like a glove. We’ve looked into this for you and will explain it in detail.
It seems like a tricky task. And, admittedly, when you’re converting a pattern for the first time, it does involve some thinking and math. Before you start knitting or crocheting, first take your body measurements. Every pattern includes a list of the required measurements. Compare your measurements to those in the pattern and figure out what you need to convert before you get started.
Tip: Make it easy on yourself and measure the dimensions of a similar garment that fits you perfectly.
Converting a Crochet Pattern or Knitting Pattern
Whether you want to convert a Crochet Pattern or a Knitting Pattern, follow the step-by-step guide below for both techniques.
Step 1: Make a gauge swatch
We know it’s not the most fun task (because deep down, you just want to dive right into your New dream project), but making a gauge swatch is absolutely crucial. Use the stitch you’ll need for the pattern. Everyone crochets or knits differently—loose or very tight. It’s important to know the stitch ratio for your project. That means counting how many stitches and rows you need to knit or crochet a 10x10 cm square. This will also help you determine whether you might need a larger or smaller needle to achieve the correct gauge. Once the gauge swatch is finished, we can adapt the pattern to your measurements.
Step 2: Resizing a Pattern
Grab a pen, paper, and calculator, because we're going to do some math. Based on your gauge swatch, you know how many stitches and rows you need for 10 cm. For example: 16 stitches and 24 rows equals 10x10 cm. A quick calculation shows that you need 1.6 stitches for 1 cm, and sixty times that for 60 cm—so 96 stitches. You’ll also need to add edge stitches. Now for the height: you need 24 rows for 10 cm. This means 2.4 rows per 1 cm, and fifty-five times that for 55 cm—so 132 rows. If you end up with a number that isn’t a whole number, you can simply round it up or down. This lays the foundation for your new garment.
For example, if you’re knitting or crocheting a sweater, you’ll of course need to know how many rows to work before starting the armholes and the neckline. Suppose the pattern specifies that the armhole begins at 35 cm. Using the figures above, the calculation is 2.4 × 35 = 84 rows. You need to decrease 6 cm, which is 10 stitches (1.6 × 6 = 9.6). For the correct distribution of the stitches, refer to the instructions in the original pattern. Usually, the stitches to be decreased are distributed over several rows.
Decreasing for the neck is actually done the same way. After 50 cm, you need to bind off stitches for the neck. Using the example numbers, this is 2.4 × 50 = 120 rows.
This way, you can actually calculate all the pattern pieces, including increases and decreases.
Tip: Make sure you use the correct measurements. For example, if you’re making the front and back pieces separately, use half the bust measurement. If you’re working in the round, use the full bust measurement.
Useful tool
The Prym knitting calculator might be even more handy than a regular calculator. Count the number of stitches or rows on your Gauge swatch and enter that number into the calculator. In the blink of an eye, you’ll see how many stitches you need for a specific size. This makes converting measurements a breeze.
Step 3: But how much wool will I need for my new pattern?
The hardest part of the math is behind us. There’s just one more calculation left to do—how do you figure out how many balls of wool you’ll need now that you’ve adjusted the measurements? Suzanne explains it in the video below:
Which piece of clothing you've made yourself are you most proud of? Share a photo of your fashion item on our Facebook page or on Instagram with #Yarnplaza.
